Nadi

(written on 22/9/09)

Today I spent some time sitting by the pool just contemplating Life, the Universe and Everything... Ok, just life, but that is enough on its own. Needless to say, there have been many things that I have been thinking about. Please excuse me if I stray a little in my post.

Being in Fiji, I have experienced a most odd mix of worlds. What I say may be a bit ignorant, but I guess as far as traveling the world, I am a bit ignorant. I am under the impression that Fiji is a major tourist location, and because of that I had the preconceived notion that the parts that I would visit might be built up for that reason. I was thus surprised when I quickly realized that at least the city of Nadi and the surrounding area have the strongest feeling of a third world country that I have so far experienced.

It is an odd blend: a weird mix of tourism and the slum.  I don’t doubt that we are not in the areas most tourists visit. For example, it seems to me that Alex and I are the only real tourists staying at this lodge. They may be locals visiting on holiday from a different part of the island, but I suspect that the only other guests are here semi-permanently.

Perhaps, than, our experience so far is more like a glimpse at the local living standards. That being said, our trip into Nadi the city was a good way to describe the whole ghetto/slummy feel the place has had. We walked out to the bus stop and was waiting for it to arrive, but the taxi drivers here being what they are, very persistently tried to get us to take their taxi instead.

I will diverge from the main story to tell you about these taxi drivers. Of my  little experiences spent abroad, these taxi drivers are the most persistent – to the point of annoyance – of any that I have encountered. Alex and I, in the first few hours in the area our lodge is in, both became annoyed at the number of taxis that honk at you as they drive past. All of the taxis are very obvious: most are bright yellow, and all have very prominent signs on the top of the car, but they all still honk to get your attention. It is all quite annoying.

As we waited for our bus, we had two taxi drivers – sitting out of their cars by the supermarket – approach us several times to see if we wanted a ride. At one point, the one driver approached me and after being turned down smooth talked me, but without lowering his price of $5. After I declined his offer a second time he proceeded to ask me if I wanted to by some weed. I declined with a laugh – I couldn’t suppress it, it came out of its own accord. It was only a chuckle, but it was very interesting to be offered it in such a way, and I have no doubt that it was just another way to get me to use his taxi.

A few minutes later, that same driver then helped out a friend of his: a different driver already had two passengers also headed into town. He offered us the ride for one dollar a head. We declined knowing that the bus was only 70 cents per person. So without trying we haggled this driver down to 70 cents before hopping in for a 7 minute ride into the city.

The hour or so we spent in town was mostly uneventful. It really is a small place, the main thoroughfare being only about ¼ mile long and the hub of all activity. This trip was mostly just to see what was there and save any of the actual events for another day. We found the temple I mentioned before, but did not go in today. If we have/find the time we may visit it later, but not today. We quickly felt a bit uncomfortable about being white.

It was interesting, almost every shop had one or two men standing in the doorway who would try to convince you to buy something from their shop.  They would greet you as you pass “Bula” and if you were to politely return the greeting “Bula” or even just nod your head in acknowledgement, they would pounce “How are you doing today, where are you from? Oh, that is nice! How long are you here? Yes? Very good. You like it here? Good. You find us to be very nice people, we are very welcoming. Come on in, we have the best carvings here… no, no, just look around. It doesn’t cost anything just to look around. No don’t go to them down the street, they’re not as nice as we are. Ok, ok. When you come back down this way come on in.” I think you now get the idea.

In a different way, it has the same social awkwardness as how you should react to the homeless. You want to be polite and treat them with the courtesy they are showing you, but if you even look at them with enough interest they will start a conversation with you which no doubt is supposed to end with you  entering their shop

But to be fair, I should mention that so far I have been pleasantly surprised at the honest welcome we have been shown. Other than on the main street of Nadi itself, a large majority of people we have passed on the street will greet you. And if you greet them first, they will acknowledge your greeting, most times with a smile. And our hostess has been very helpful, and genuinely interested in helping us find stuff out. 

I think as we explore this island and the others more, we will see more of the utopian side of Fiji. Until then, I am content to walk to the beach, relax by the pool, and sleep in.

 

Cheers!